11/25/2010 - Mt. Superior (11,050ft, 45 degree snow, 5.6), South ridge, Wasatch Range, Utah, second attempt, led by TBD (UMA)- outcome TBD
9/25/2012 - Volcan Puyehue, Patagonia, Chile This was supposed to be a climb and ski into the crater led by Jorge Kozulj and Rich Meyer. But due to an airline pilot strike the day I flew, I never even made it to the mountain, so I've rescheduled this one for the same time in 2013.
7/4/2012 - Mt. Lyell, Yosemite, CA (13,120 ft), via Lyell Glacier Direct as party leader
4/5/2012 - Matterhorn Peak, CA (12,200 ft) Ski Dreams Couloir, ski mountaineering as party leader. Climbed / skied solo on the upper mountain.
9/22/2011 - Mt. Shasta (14,178ft, AI2-3/III), via Hotlum Bolam Ridge as the party leader, did not summit
7/28/2011 - Mt. Baker (10,781), via Easton glacier, skinned/climbed/skied as the party leader
6/17/2011 - Mt. Shasta (14,178ft, IV), Casval Ridge, solo, did not summit (conditions)
5/5/2011 - Mt. Crosson (12,800ft, Alaska Grade III, 55-60 degree snow and ice), Southeast ridge, Alaska Range, led by Nate Opp/Joey McBrayer (AMS)
4/27/2011 - Mt. Foraker (17,400ft, Alaska Grade III, 55-60 degree snow and ice), Sultana Ridge, Alaska Range, led by Nate Opp/Joey McBrayer (AMS), did not summit (weather)
7/15/2010 - Mt. Shasta (14,178ft), South side training climb
11/20/2010 - Mt. Superior (11,050ft, 45 degree snow, 5.6), South ridge, Wasatch Range, Utah, led by Tyson Bradley (UMA) - did not summit (weather)
9/27/2011 - Mt. Shasta (14,178ft, AI2-3/III), Hotlum Bolam Ridge, solo
7/15/2010 - Mt. Shasta (14,178ft, AI2-3/III), Hotlum Bolam Ridge, led by Rich Meyer (SMG)
6/27/2010 - Cathedral Peak (10,911 ft), Tuolumne Meadows area, Yosemite
6/28/2010 - Tresidder Peak (10,600 ft), Tuolumne Meadows area, Yosemite
6/28/2010 - "Finger Eleven" (10,360 ft), Tuolumne Meadows area, Yosemite
5/18/2010 - Mt. Frances (10,451 ft., III, 45 degree snow), East ridge, Alaska Range, led by Jason Thompson/Tyler Jones (RMI)
5/16/2010 - Radio Control Tower (8,670 feet, West face) Alaska Range, led by Jason Thompson/Tyler Jones (RMI)
Skills Training
- Level I AAIRE avalanche certification - January 27-30, 2012
- Attempt on Mt. Foraker, 2011
- Introduction to Backcountry Skiing, Sierras, led by Rich Meyer, 2011
- 10-day Alaska Seminar, Alaska Range, Kahiltna Glacier, led by Jason Thompson/Tyler Jones (RMI): 5/12/2010
Lesser peaks and backpacking trips
- Various ascents of Mt. Timpanogos (11,749 ft), Wasatch Range, Utah
- Lone Peak, Wasatch Range, Utah (11,253 feet, 3 ascents)
- Mt. Nebo, Wasatch Range, Utah (11,928 feet)
- Squaw Peak, Wasatch Range, Utah (7,877 feet, many ascents)
- Big Baldy Wasatch Range, Utah (8,756 feet, many ascents)
- Y Mountain Wasatch Range, Utah (8,568 feet, many ascents
- Cascade Peak, Wasatch Range, Utah (10,827 feet, many ascents)
- East Provo Peak, Wasatch Range, Utah (11,044 feet)
- Various smaller peaks in the Wasatch Range
CURRENT PHYSICAL CONDITIONING REGIMEN
- 4-5 days/wk: Cardio, including plyometrics, steady state cardio, high intensity intervals (HIIT), or 5-7 miles running with focus on alternating aerobic and extended anaerobic heart rate maintenance
- 2 days/wk: Weight training: 1 day of legs and back, one day of other upper body muscle groups, alternating. Pushups, pullups, various body weight resistance exercises
- 3 days/wk: 20-minute high intensity core-only workout
- 1 day/wk: 90 min yoga, balance, and flexibility training
When training for expedition climbing, add:
- One day/wk 5-12 mile hike/climb with weighted pack 60-90 lbs;
- One day/wk 60 min speed intervals on stair climber with 65-80 lb pack OR total body / core work- One rest day or 60 min stretching
- Roped rock climbing at Boy Scout Rocks (Mt. Diablo) as available for practice on technical rock
- Climbing gym as available
Training grounds:
- Mt. Shasta (when possible): snow and ice with a 50-60 lb pack, skis/skins, crampon, ice axe, and alpine climbing practice
- SF Bay Area peaks: Black Mountain, Mt. Hamilton, Diablo North Summit, Diablo South Summit, Mt. Olympia, Mission Peak, various Big Basin Redwoods and Skyline To The Sea trail loops, Castle Rock State Park, Harkins Ridge, and others.
- Various climbs in Yosemite, when possible.
PLANNED CLIMBS AND ROCK TRAINING
Planned for 2013:
- Cotopaxi, Cayambe, and Chimborazo, Antisana (Ecuador), June, 2011
- Mt. Rainier, via Kautz ice chutes, July 2013 (second attempt)
- Mt. Timpanogos, via Everest Ridge, early spring?
- Ski mountaineering missions to Eastern Sierra TBD
- Mt. Whitney, via Mountaineer's Route: Spring / Summer
- Multipitch rock: Tenaya Peak (5.5), Northwest buttress, Yosemite: Summer
- Multipitch rock: After Six (5.7), Yosemite: Summer
- Multipitch rock: Royal Arches (5.10b or 5.7 A0), Yosemite: Late summer
